-
1 Pile
The yarn which forms the face of fabrics such as velvets, velveteens, terry, etc. There are several varieties, viz., warp pile, weft pile, and knotted pile, and cut, loop or curl pile. Warp Pile is formed by an extra warp additional to and much longer than the ground warp. The pile threads are woven over wires which, when removed, leave loops either uncut or cut. This system is used for wool and silk velvets and many carpets, rugs, etc. Terry fabrics have looped pile formed by weaving without wires. Weft Pile is formed by weft floats which are cut after the cloth is woven to make the pile as seen in velveteens, corduroys, etc. Knotted Pile is made by hand by knotting short lengths of yarn to the warp threads. Design is formed by using pile threads of different colours. After the rug or carpet is woven the pile is trimmed to a uniform length. Curl Pile is produced by weaving two kinds of yarn in the same cloth, a non-shrinking yarn being floated loosely on the surface while a yarn that shrinks readily is interwoven closely. When the cloth is shrunk the unshrinking yarn forms curls on the surface, as in astrakhans. -
2 Weft Pile
-
3 Pile On Pile
Velvets constructed with pattern produced by different lengths of pile and obtained either by the method of weaving or by shearing. For warp pile fabrics the wires used have varying thicknesses along their length, thus thick places give long, and thin places short pile. For weft pile fabrics the floats are of different lengths, short floats give short length pile and long floats the longer pile. To produce pattern by finishing, part of the pile is pressed down by embossed rollers or blocks and the pile remaining erect is then sheared short. The pressed parts are brushed up and form the design. -
4 Lashed Pile Velveteens
Another name for " Fast Pile Velveteens," that is the pile picks interweave with three warp ends between the floats. They are weft pile fabrics.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Lashed Pile Velveteens
-
5 ворсовой уток
-
6 Velveteen
Cotton fabric with a short full pile made by weft tufts, and frequently referred to as cotton velvet. A better definition of velveteen would be weft pile velvet to distinguish the fabric from warp pile velvet, more particularly since the practice has grown of making velvets with rayon weft pile on the same principle as cotton weft pile velveteens. The weaves vary, but all conform to the principle of floating the weft which is to form pile over five or more ends. The pile weft in cheaper velveteens floats over five warp ends and under one, the weave being complete on 6 ends and 6 picks as shown at A. After weaving, the pile picks are cut in the centre of the floats, e.g., along the arrows, in order to make a uniform length of pile. With this construction the weft tufts have only one intersection with the warp by which they are held, and stability in the fabric can only be obtained by mutual support through the tufts, the binding picks, and the warp ends, being present in sufficient number. Another weave for velveteen is shown at B on 6 ends and 8 picks. A method of weaving fast pile velveteen is shown in weave C, where the weft tufts make three intersections and are held by two warp threads. See diagram under Velvet, showing single and fast pile tufts.
-
7 Velvet
Originally velvet was a fabric made with a short dense pile woven from silk warp. Now the term is applied to fabrics made partly of silk or rayon, and partly of other materials, and to fabrics made entirely of other yarns, besides being indiscriminately confused with velveteen, which is a weft pile texture. There is a constructional difference between warp and weft pile textures. In warp pile velvets the length of the pile is determined by the size of the pile wire, or in other ways, and the pile is cut in the loom. Many velvets are woven double, face-to-face, and cut apart while on the loom. In weft pile velvets the length of pile- is determined by the length of the pile weft floats, and the pile is cut in a supplementary operation after the cloth has left the loom. The distinguishing feature of velvet is a succession of rows of short cut tufts of fibres standing so close together as to present a uniform surface with a rich appearance and entrancing softness to the touch. The quality of velvets is determined by the closeness of the pile tufts and the manner in which they are bound to the ground texture. Various weaves are used according to the weight of fabrics, yarns used, and density of pile desired. The binding of the tufts usually follows one or two systems, either single tufts which are held by only one binding pick, as shown at S, or fast pile tufts which are interwoven with three weft picks as shown at W.
-
8 Astrakhan
A soft, curly, strong wool, obtained from a sheep reared in Astrakhan, Persia, and other Asiatic districts. A cloth of silk and worsted, or all worsted, with a long loosely curled pile, and put on the market as an imitation of real astrakhan. Mohair yam is largely used. The worsted fabric is made in widths 56 to 70-in., 48 X 78 picks, two-fold botany warp, about 2 / 56's to 2 / 70's, and the weft four picks single botany and two picks three-fold mohair. The mohair weft yarn is curled before using, which, when cut (similar to velveteen) causes the free ends of the tufts to curl on the face of the cloth. This cut fabric is known as "Polarian". Sometimes the pile is left uncut. A good quality cloth is made 48-in. wide, 48-ends, 150 picks per inch, 2 / 30's cotton warp, one pick 24's cotton weft, and two picks 88's mohair. A knitted fabric is also on the market as an imitation astrakhan. This is the cheapest method, but does not give the same weight or wearing quality. Astrakhan fabrics are made in two ways: - (1) On the weft principle, in which by the shrinking of the ground texture the pile weft is thrown up as a loop; (2) as a warp texture, in which loops are formed by the warp yarn passing over wires. -
9 Hammersmith Carpets
HAMMERSMITH CARPETS, or RUGSEnglish-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 13/4-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of 5/8-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Hammersmith Carpets
-
10 Rugs
HAMMERSMITH CARPETS, or RUGSEnglish-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 13/4-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of 5/8-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end. -
11 Thickset
THICKSET, THICKSET CORDA strong, heavily wefted corduroy cloth, with a weave repeat of 6 ends and 9 picks. The ground weave is the 3-end twill, and there are two pile picks to one of ground. The pile weft floats are short and give a very thick pile when cut. An average make is 36 ends and 350 picks per inch, 18's warp, 20's weft. The cloth is used for workmen's trouserings. -
12 Thickset Cord
THICKSET, THICKSET CORDA strong, heavily wefted corduroy cloth, with a weave repeat of 6 ends and 9 picks. The ground weave is the 3-end twill, and there are two pile picks to one of ground. The pile weft floats are short and give a very thick pile when cut. An average make is 36 ends and 350 picks per inch, 18's warp, 20's weft. The cloth is used for workmen's trouserings. -
13 Donegal Carpets
Carpets made on the vertical loom, by Irish village workers of Donegal. They are hand-knotted fabrics of good quality and heavy structure. They are made 8 threads 2-ply 8 skeins warp per inch, and 2-ply 5 skeins weft. The pile weft is 3-ply 3 skeins tied in Ghiordes knot. The tufts are about 2-in. long and give a pile of over 1/2-in., with 16 tufts per square inch. -
14 ворсовой уток
Textile: pile picks, pile weft -
15 Pony Skin
A pile fabric made in imitation of the Russian pony skin fur. Piece-dyed black. Made 50-in. wide with a two-fold super quality dyed cotton warp, and mohair pile weft. -
16 Bandhor Rugs
A variety of Turkish carpet in colours and designs of Eastern style, made of coarse cotton ground and a thick pile weft tied in Ghiordes knot. -
17 Carpets
The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain. -
18 Velours Simple
VELOURS SIMPLE, VELOURS DOUBLEObsolete French warp pile fabric. The pile was formed by two sets of warp, one with single, the other with two-fold ends, the weft was a different colour. Where the pile was of single yarn the different colour weft was visible producing a changeable effect, while the weft was invisible where the pile was of the two-fold yarn. -
19 Velours Double
VELOURS SIMPLE, VELOURS DOUBLEObsolete French warp pile fabric. The pile was formed by two sets of warp, one with single, the other with two-fold ends, the weft was a different colour. Where the pile was of single yarn the different colour weft was visible producing a changeable effect, while the weft was invisible where the pile was of the two-fold yarn. -
20 Crossley, Joseph
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Halifax (?), Englandd. September 1868 Halifax (?), England[br]English patentee of successful power-driven carpet looms.[br]Joseph Crossley was the second son of John, the founder of a carpet-weaving firm in Halifax. He did not figure much in public life for he was essentially a business man. It was under his direct superintendence that most of the extensions at Dean Clough Mill, Halifax, were built, and to a very great degree the successful working of the vast establishment that these mills became, covering fifteen acres, was due to him. In 1864 the firm became a limited-liability company, worth over a million pounds c.1880.The company's vital patents for the power-driven carpet looms were taken out in his name. The first, in 1850 in the names of Joseph Crossley, George Collier and James Hudson, was for weaving carpets in a manner similar to the way velvet was woven, with the pile warp threads passing over wires. After a couple of picks of weft, a wire was inserted from the side over the main warp threads but under the pile warp threads. These were lowered and another couple of weft shoots bound in the pile warp. The pile was cut with a knife running along a slot in the top of the wire, and then the wire was removed. There was a further patent in 1851, in the name of Joseph Crossley alone, for improvements in the manufacture of Brussels and cut-pile carpets. An interesting part of this patent was the use of a partly coloured warp to make patterns in the carpets. These vital patents gave the Crossley brothers their dominance in carpet weaving; production on their power looms was six times quicker than by hand. Like his brothers, one of whom was Francis Crossley, he was a great benefactor to charities. The brothers built the Crossley Orphan Home at a cost of £50,000 and endowed it with about £3,000 a year.[br]Bibliography1850, British patent no. 13,267 (power-driven carpet loom).1851, British patent no. 13,474 (improvements in manufacture of Brussels and cut-pile carpets).Further ReadingJ.Hogg (ed.), Fortunes Made in Business, London (contains an account of the firm of John Crossley \& Sons).RLH
См. также в других словарях:
pile — pile1 /puyl/, n., v., piled, piling. n. 1. an assemblage of things laid or lying one upon the other: a pile of papers; a pile of bricks. 2. Informal. a large number, quantity, or amount of anything: a pile of work. 3. a heap of wood on which a… … Universalium
textile — /teks tuyl, til/, n. 1. any cloth or goods produced by weaving, knitting, or felting. 2. a material, as a fiber or yarn, used in or suitable for weaving: Glass can be used as a textile. adj. 3. woven or capable of being woven: textile fabrics. 4 … Universalium
floor covering — Finish material on floors, including wood strips, parquet, linoleum, vinyl, asphalt tile, rubber, cork, epoxy resins, ceramic tile, and carpeting. Wood strip flooring, attached to a subfloor of plywood, is most popular, especially for residences … Universalium
Glossary of textile manufacturing — For terms specifically related to sewing, see Glossary of sewing terms. For terms specifically related to dyeing, see Glossary of dyeing terms. The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first… … Wikipedia
Textile manufacturing terminology — The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. In order to make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. (Both fibre and fiber are used in this article.)… … Wikipedia
rug and carpet — Any decorative textile normally made of a thick material and intended as a floor covering. Floor coverings made of plaited rushes date from the 5th or 4th millennium BC. Carpets were first made in central and western Asia as coverings for earthen … Universalium
Carpet — For other uses, see Carpet (disambiguation). The Azerbaijani carpet, a UNESCO Masterpiece of Intangible Heritage of Humanity … Wikipedia
Persian carpet — Persian Arts Visual Arts Painting … Wikipedia
Weaving — Weaver (occupation) redirects here. This article is about textile weaving. For other uses, see Weaving (disambiguation). Warp and weft in plain weaving Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are… … Wikipedia
Kilim — Kilims are flat tapestry woven carpets or rugs produced from theTurkey, Balkans to Pakistan. Kilims can be purely decorative or can function as prayer rugs.NameThe name kilim or kelim is Turkish, and comes from the Persian gelim (گلیم) to spread… … Wikipedia
weaving — Production of fabric by interlacing two sets of yarns so that they cross each other, normally at right angles, usually accomplished with a hand or power operated loom. In weaving, lengthwise yarns are called warp and crosswise yarns are called… … Universalium
